Amish You Were Here

I was asked the other day if we ever get "Fanny Fatigue." I just giggled and giggled and giggled at the term. Luckily, we have not experienced any symptoms yet, but (no pun intended) fear we might with the next week of driving.

We had hoped to spend some time in Chicago, but the hostel was booked for the month of October. It turns out this was a blessing in disguise. In addition to the recent increased crime in the city, we have grown to hate, yes hate, Illinois drivers.

We made it safely to the Indiana Dunes National Lakeshore - a destination we attempted back in July, but was booted to a private campground in Michigan City due to an overwhelming number of campers. From the Lakeshore, we took Highway 20 across northern Indiana, passing through the small but bustling Amish communities near Middlebury and Shipshewana, Indiana.


After reading the book Better Off back in July, it was exciting to see the Amish in person. We were there on a Saturday, which is stock-up-on-groceries, cut-the-grass, and wash-and-hang-the-clothes-to-dry day. It was odd to see a parking lot full of cars and horse-drawn carriages, yet it seemed a normal occurrence for everyone else. We watched uniformed couples browse the local shopping center for spare wagon wheels, carriage heaters, and baskets. And we witnessed teenage Amish girls, in traditional dress, stockings and tennis shoes, sipping on ice-blended drinks. It is an intriguing lifestyle, but we don't always understand the rules - which vary between communities. See, the Amish can't run electricity in their homes, but they can use solar panels or car batteries to operate their appliances. They also can't have a telephone in their house, but can have a phone booth in the corner of their yard. And they can't own a car, but they can lease one.


We respect this lifestyle and were careful not to impose on the Amish families. (Travel books and signs also tell visitors not to photograph the Amish.) I was able to photograph the horse-drawn buggies on the highway - an interesting contrast.

We found ourselves in an Amish bakery, giddy in gathering sugar and molasses cookies, Italian cheese bread, a jar of homemade vegetable soup, and a soft loaf of zucchini bread. We also picked up the standard fruits and veggies, but had to write about our sinful findings.




With Amish goodies in hand, we left Indiana heading east across northern Ohio, further testing the Endurance of our Ends. (I'm really sorry for all the bad jokes!) We spent the night at East Harbor State Park, lucky to nab a tent site. The park was in the midst of hosting a weekend full of Halloween activities. Campsites were decorated with skeletons and bats, and costumed children running amok. There was even a campsite decorating contest. These people are SERIOUS about Halloween! We were sad we didn't have anything scary to put on our tent.


After a good nights sleep (and a good Rump Resting), we drove to the nearby Marblehead Lighthouse. A few facts:

• Originally called the Sandusky Bay Light until 1870 (Unfortunately, I couldn't find a reason for the name change.)
• The oldest lighthouse in continuous operation in the Great Lakes.
• Benajah Wolcott (1762-1832) was the first lightkeeper at Marblehead. Rachel, his wife, was appointed keeper after Benajah's death. She was the first female lighthouse keeper on the Great Lakes, and she operated the light until 1854.

The lighthouse keeper's residence (pictured above) was built in 1822 of native limestone, and it has been continuously lived in since 1985. The Ottawa County Historical Society acquired the property and spent years removing linoleum and wood paneling from the home. There is one original fireplace, and a remodeled hearth.


From there we settled into a drive along Lake Erie, heading first through the city of Cleveland. This was a good opportunity to take note of how segregated cities can be, and just where our comfort levels lie. Driving through a western suburb, we saw beautifully restored homes and well manicured lawns. Then we went in the city itself, not more than a mile or so, and crossed an overpass and continued heading east. From there it was an entirely different city. "The bad part of town," as most people would say. It was amazing to not only see how quickly an area can change and how fine the lines can be between neighborhoods, but also how we reacted to the change.


On a lighter note, here are some cool facts about Lake Erie:

• 12th largest freshwater lake in the world.
• Most shallow of 5 Great Lakes (average depth of 62 feet).
• 210 miles long, 37 miles wide, and a shoreline of 871 miles.
• Maximum depth: 210 feet.
• Named after the Erie native American tribe.
• The outlet for Lake Erie is the Niagara River, thus feeding water to Niagara Falls.
• More fish are produced each year for human consumption from Lake Erie than from the other four Great Lakes combined.