New York City - Part III

The weather was ominous for our visit to the World Trade Center site... drizzly and gray. The Tribute Word Trade Center is a visitor center where people from around the world can share their stories and thoughts on the events of September 11, 2001. Their main goal is to support victims of terrorism through education and peer support.

The World Trade Center site is a bustling construction zone for the National September 11th Memorial & Museum, and there is a boarded walkway around the perimeter for visitors to pay their respects and view the progress of the memorial.

We didn't realize that a final decision was made on the memorial design. You can check it out here. The memorial will honor those killed in the terrorist attacks of September 11, 2001, and February 26, 1993. This national tribute will bear witness to the attacks, commemorate those who risked their lives to save others, recognize the thousands who survived and reflect upon the unity and compassion shown in the aftermath.


It will definitely make a statement with two massive pools set within the original footprints of the Twin Towers and 30-foot waterfalls cascading down the sides. The names of the 2,980 innocent victims killed in the attacks in New York City, at the Pentagon outside Washington, D.C. and in Shanksville, Pennsylvania, will be inscribed around the edges of the waterfalls.

It was hard to imagine two buildings, each with 110 floors, taking up this small city block. It was also hard to imagine the devastation on September 11th. For the people who worked near the Twin Towers, what is it like for them to see a blank city block? Is it a daily reminder of friends, family, and co-workers who died?

Where were you on September 11, 2001?

Richie and I were getting ready to go to our classes at LSU, when our friend, Josh Stowe, called and said "The world's going crazy, people are crashing planes into buildings. Turn on your TV." We spent the next few days, like everyone else in the world, in shock.

_________________________________________________

On the corner of Wall and Broad Streets is the location of Federal Hall. It was built in 1703 for the British royal governor's council and assembly of New York, and served as a City Hall. Nine colonial delegates met here in opposition of Britain's Stamp Act... 1765's "no taxation without representation." And it served as the the nation's capitol in 1785.



Federal Hall is best known for George Washington's inauguration as the 1st U.S. President on April 30, 1789. And the first amendments to the Constitution (also known as the Bill of Rights) were passed here in 1790.

Unfortunately, the building was destroyed by 1812, and the present building was built in 1842 and served as a customs house. In 1862, it became (1 of 6) Federal Sub-Treasuries until being replaced by the Federal Reserve in 1920. Today, Federal Hall is a National Park Historic Site and houses a museum.


At its simplest, Wall Street is a short street in lower Manhattan that once formed the northern boundary of the New Amsterdam settlement in the 17th century. There was literally a wall there as defense for the growing town.

Today it serves as the backbone of the New York financial center. It's home to several exchanges including the New York Stock Exchange, American Stock Exchange, and NASDAQ.


After grabbing a few pictures of Federal Hall, we spotted a nearby hot dog stand and couldn't resist. While we dined on our $3 dogs, we enjoyed watching a group of Japanese business men lined up, enthusiastically snapping pictures of Wall Street.


After 9/11, security around New York City was heightened, and Wall Street was no exception. Police officers stood in nearly every entrance to a Wall Street building, and the streets were blocked to general vehicular traffic. At each street entrance stood a guardhouse and a large barrier that made us think of a lazy susan. In it were embedded a line of large concrete cylinders - strong enough to stop a tank. Before passing through, the vehicle would be inspected and the lazy susan would make a quarter turn to allow the car to pass, and then it would close again.

If you're in the area, you can't pass up the opportunity to visit "The Charging Bull." This is a giant bronze bull statue that almost continually has someone standing in front posing for a picture. Some people prefer to stand behind the bull for a more intimate shot. He's located in the Bowling Green, the oldest public park in New York City.


So why a bull?

In stock market lingo, the market is "bearish" when more people are selling and the price is dropping, and the market is "bullish" when more people are buying and the price is rising. So all that trading is just a battle between the bears and the bulls. Feel free to insert your own joke here!

Joie de Vivre by the New York sculptor Mark di Suvero
Zuccotti Park (formerly Liberty Plaza Park)


Double Check
by J. Seward Johnson
Zuccotti Park (formerly Liberty Plaza Park)

_________________________________________________

NYC Parking, the Meat Packing District

A city of good food!

Our dear friends, Sandi and Rachel, adore NYC. And they gave us a few restaurants to check out. One was the Florent Restaurant in the Meat Packing District.

Unfortunately, after 30 or so years in the business, the Florent Restaurant closed for business a month before our visit. What timing. Fortunately, a new restaurant, Gansevoort 69, has filled the void.

They specialize in gourmet comfort foods - with items like chicken and waffles, homemade granola, oatmeal, buttermilk pancakes, mashed potatoes, sweet potato fries, meatloaf...

I had spaghettios, which weren't actually spaghettios from the can. The menu describes it as: "Annelini pasta, san Marzano tomato sauce, shaved parmigiano-reggioano, and fresh basil." I added spicy meatballs, too.

The Meat Packing District

Funny story:
Our waiter was especially enthusiastic, and we had a great time chatting and laughing with him. Before heading out, he asked "Where are you from?" We told him Louisiana. His response - "Oh, so that is why y'all are so nice and cheerful. You are the happiest people we've served today!" It turns out, his grandmother is from New Orleans, but he grew up in Alaska. When he came to NYC, he said "I have found my people!" and has been here ever since.

So if you find yourself in the Meat Packing District of NYC, check out Gansevoort 69.

Sandi and Rachel also suggested The Cupping Room Cafe in SoHo. While we were supposed to try their lemon gelato, we couldn't help but share a plate of salmon eggs benedict and a cup of coffee. (Yes, I've been able to stomach eggs benedict again!)

Just a quick note on SoHo...
The SoHo neighborhood in New York is named because the area is South of Houston Street. And the NoHo neighborhood is named because it is north of Houston Street. By the way, Houston Street in NYC is pronounced "Howston," not like Houston, Texas. I love random facts.


And one more food stop... this time in the Little Italy neighborhood. My junior high English and Home Economics teacher, Mrs. Evans, makes an annual trip to NYC with her dear friend, Mrs. Marue. Every morning of their visit to the city, they stop at Caffe Roma for some espresso and pastries. We had to try it!

We learned that Little Italy is getting smaller - no joke - because Chinatown is buying and renovating more buildings in the neighborhood.

We stopped by St. Patrick's Cathedral to read some history, when we spotted a billboard with naked people on it advertising a perfume. So much for scratch and sniff! What do you think churchgoers have to say about that one?


To read more about St. Patrick's Cathedral history, click here.

________________________________________________

We were excited to spend the afternoon touring the USS New York. My sister called to tell us that the ship was going to be in NYC - and that we should stop by and see it. However, we didn't check the schedule, and we were disappointed to discover that the USS New York had departed at 6am the day before.

What is the USS New York?

It is the fifth ship in the San Antonio class, and is an active Naval vessel whose bow stem was built with 7.5 tons of steel from the World Trade Center.

Commander Quentin King said "The significance of where the WTC steel is located on the 684-foot-long ship symbolizes the strength and resiliency of the citizens of New York as it sails forward around the world. It sends a message of America becoming stronger as a result, coming together as a country and ready to move forward as we make our way through the world."

More Facts:

• Home Base: Norfolk, VA
• Motto: "Never Forget"
• Length: 684 feet
• Speed: 22 knots (24.2 mph)
• Armament: Two 30 mm Close-in-Guns, for surface threat defense; two Rolling Airframe Missile launchers for air defense
• Crew: 360 Sailors (28 officers, 332 enlisted) and 3 Marines
• Troops: 699 (66 officers, 633 enlisted); surge to 800 total.
• And probably the coolest fact for us - it was built at the shipyard in Avondale, Louisiana.

And to top off our visit to New York City, we caught the Radio City Christmas Spectacular, featuring The Rockettes!

Things we learned about our visit to Radio City Music Hall:

• The Rockettes were originally called "Missouri Rockets" and were actually formed in 1925 in St. Louis, Missouri by Russell Market.
• Samuel Roxy Rothafel brought the dance troupe to New York City to perform at Roxy Theatre.
• The "Missouri Rockets" were renamed the "Roxyettes"
• Rothafell opened Radio City Music Hall, and the dance troupe was named "The Rockettes"
• Radio City Music Hall almost shut down in the 1970’s, but New York City Government decided that the hall was too important to the city’s success, so they granted funding and the hall reopened in 1985 – along with the famous Rockettes!

We were fortunate enough to see the second show on opening day. It was spectacular – and even incorporated some 3D imaging.

It is a romantic idea to spend the holidays in New York City, but I can’t imagine it would be as glamorous as it was in the show! But one thing is for sure...

New York City - Part II

We headed "downtown" to Battery Park, and arrived at Clinton Castle to pick up our tickets to the Statue of Liberty and Ellis Island. Clinton Castle is a story in itself:

After the American Revolution, NYC decided it needed more protection. By 1812, it built a circular fort at the southern tip of Manhattan, but it never fired a shot. In 1817, the fort was named Castle Clinton (after the former mayor of New York, and future governor DeWitt Clinton) and used as an entertainment venue. The name was changed to Castle Garden in 1824 and housed concerts and firework displays.

Between 1855 and 1890, Castle Garden was turned into an immigration station, processing 8 million immigrants. In 1892, immigration operations moved to Ellis Island.

Castle Garden changed again in 1896 - this time it became an aquarium famous for its exotic fish from around the world. In the 1940's, much of Castle Garden was demolished for a tunnel project, but the original Castle Clinton walls remained.

In 1946, after many configurations, Castle Clinton became a national monument and was restored in the 1970's. I think Clinton Castle deserves a much needed break! Today, it serves as a museum and ticket station for the Statue of Liberty and Ellis Island cruise boats.


You can't imagine our excitement on the cruise boat as we approached the Statue of Liberty. She is a beauty - and enormous!

During a time when many French saw repression in their homeland, a man sought to protest by devising a plan to honor the ideals of freedom and liberty seen in the United States. Edouard de Laboulaye decided to build a modern-day Colossus (i.e. a really really big statue). Unfortunately, he died before he could see his Statue of Liberty constructed.

"Everything in America is big... even the peas."
- Auguste Barthodli (Pictured above)

Ok, it's much more than a statue. In the words of her sculptor, Auguste Bartholdi, "Colossal statuary does not consist simply in making an enormous statue. It ought to produce an emotion in the breast of the spectator, not because of its volume, but because its size is in keeping with the idea that it interprets, and with the place which it ought to occupy."

The statue was built in Paris, then dismantled, crated, and shipped to the U.S. She was stowed in 214 crates and traveled for 4 weeks. She arrived in New York Harbor on June 19, 1885.

What the statue represents to her people is something not easily pinned down. During the massive immigration of the late 19th century, Liberty represented the "Mother of Exiles." World War I saw a drastic reduction in immigration, and Liberty became America personified, starring on posters asking citizens to enlist in the military or buy war bonds. Since them Liberty has been used in more ways than we can recount here - but our favorite has to be helping out the Ghostbusters in their lackluster sequel.


So what does she stand for?
Her classic face and drapery suggest a Roman Goddess of Liberty; the broken shackles symbolize freedom newly achieved; the radiant crown represents her shedding light on the seven seas and continents. Roman numerals "July 4, 1776" are engraved on her tablet.

Looking "up her skirt"

Emma Lazarus

And who is Emma Lazarus?
She was 34 years old when she wrote The New Colossus, a poem in tribute to the Statue of Liberty, and is engraved on the pedestal.

Not like the brazen giant of Greek fame,
With conquering limbs astride from land to land;
Here at our sea-washed, sunset gates shall stand
A mighty woman with a torch, whose flame
Is the imprisoned lightning, and her name
Mother of Exiles. From her beacon-hand
Glows world-wide welcome; her mild eyes command
The air-bridged harbor that twin cities frame.
"Keep ancient lands, your storied pomp!" cries she
With silent lips. "Give me your tired, your poor,
Your huddled masses yearning to breathe free,
The wretched refuse of your teeming shore.
Send these, the homeless, tempest-tost to me,
I lift my lamp beside the golden door!"

Unfortunately we weren't able to get tickets to go up to the crown (they sell out months in advance), but were able to climb the base and "look up her skirt." The construction is quite fascinating. She is made up of a thin copper "skin" that's supported by a web of steel bars. The Visitor center really had some neat displays showing the techniques.

Torch and Flame No. 2

The Statue of Liberty is on her third torch and flame, yes, her third. The first torch and flame was completed in 1876, and the flame was a closed copper shell that was never intended to light from within. One month before the dedication in 1886, the U.S. Lighthouse Board cut a double row of staggered holes and placed electric lights inside the flame. The lights were dim and disappointing, and in 1892, the staggered holes were replaced with windows and a skylight was added.

By 1916, new light was badly needed and sculptor Gutzon Borglum (Mt. Rushmore's sculptor) redesigned the flame (torch and flame no. 2, and the one in the photo). He replaced 250 copper sections with amber glass and installed flickering lamps for the "flame" effect. The new designed quickly corroded, which led to torch and flame attempt number 3. This time, Bartholdi's original design was used and successfully withstands the elements.


Facts:

• Height from ground to top of torch - 305 ft. 1in.
• Height of statue - 151 ft. 1 in.
• Length of nose - 4 ft. 6 in.
• Thickness of copper "skin" - 3/32 in., about the thickness of two pennies, and weighs more than 62,000 pounds
  
• The statue was designed by Frederic Auguste Bartholdi, but Gustave Eiffel (of the Eiffel Tower) engineered the "skin's" support system.
  
• Her pedestal was created by Richards Morris Hunt
  
• Total cost (including the pedestal) = $300,000
  
• She was a gift from the French people (A random fact: The French are grateful people who express their thanks with gifts to the U.S. After WWI, the French gave 50 box cars - Hawaii and D.C. had to share - to the U.S., called "Merci Trains." Washington state's car is in Yakima, and Louisiana's car is on the Old State Capitol grounds in Baton Rouge.)
• Dedicated on October 28, 1886 by President Grover Cleveland
  

Ellis Island

After visiting Lady Liberty, we took the ferry to its next stop: Ellis Island.

One of the rooms had a model of Ellis Island as it changed over the years. It began as a tiny island (maybe 1/10th of its current size) and was called Little Oyster Island. It was later owned and sold by Samuel Ellis, a colonial New Yorker, in the late 1700's. Its lands were continually added to, and we heard from someone there that the city of New York used debris from the digging of the subway to build up Ellis Island.

The Registry Room
On many days, over 5,000 people would file through this room
waiting to be inspected and registered.

The island is most famous for its use as the U.S. immigration office - processing more than 12 million immigrants from 1892 to 1924 - thus contributing to one of the largest human migrations in the history of the world. The Island now serves as a memorial to all those who persevered in the hopes of finding a better life. John F. Kennedy wrote, "There were probably as many reasons for coming to America as there were people who came." Over 100 million Americans today can claim ancestors who came through Ellis Island.

"Graffiti Columns"
During renovations and cleaning,
inscriptions by detained immigrants were revealed.

___________________________________________

On our way to the Empire State Building, we were constantly stopped by the double-decker tour bus sales people. They could pick us out of a crowd of 100 people, and jump across the sidewalk to put a pamphlet in your hand.

Did we really stand out that much? What was their secret?

Finally, I asked the double-decker tour bus salesman near the Empire State Building - "Wow, you guys are good at picking us out. We've been asked at least 14 times this morning. Let me ask you something... How do you know we are tourist? Is it our backpacks or how we walk?" He laughed and laughed and laughed at the question, then said "Sometimes we can tell by the backpacks, or your walking pace. But when you are in the city for the first time - you are always looking up. That is how we know you are a tourist."

Ah-ha! Sneaky, sneaky! So from that point on, when we saw the double-decker tour bus sale people, we looked down.

From King Kong to the debunked penny myth, the Empire State Building is as iconic New York as the Space Needle is to Seattle or Mickey Mouse to Disneyland.

After September 11th, the Empire State Building became the tallest building in New York again. It stands 1,250 feet tall, and is the 3rd tallest building in the Americas and the 15th tallest in the world.


A quick history and some Facts:

• The Waldor-Astoria Hotel was razed for the construction of the Empire State Building
• Brainchild of Alfred E. Smith and John J. Raskob (By the way, Raskob was a Wall Street financier who helped turn General Motors into an automotive giant and sparked the growth of the DuPont family investment firm. Smith was an ex-New York governor.)
• William "Bill" Lamb was the architect
• The Empire State Building was built for $41 million (including the cost of the land)
• It was constructed in one year and 45 days
• The 55 foot deep foundation holds the 210 columns that support the entire structure
• 60,000 tons of steel beams were delivered at a rate that assured two stories could be completed every day (That's 4 1/2 stories a week!)
• It took 7 million man-hours to complete, and employed as many as 4000 men per day
• 290 bricklayers and masons
• 10 million bricks
• 2.5 million feet of electrical wire
• 120 miles of pipe
• 1000+ miles of telephone cable
• 6500 windows
• 1860 steps
• It weighs 365,000 tons
• 200,000 cubic feet of Indiana limestone
• May 1, 1931 - the Empire State Building is officially open to the public

The lobby is "An Art Deco Masterpiece" and made of thick slabs of marble and steel highlights. Elevators take visitors to the 86th floor in about a minute, and the 86th floor is 1,050 feet from the street.


Did you know that the 102nd floor was originally built as a landing mast for air ships? Me neither! The idea was that you could board an air ship in Europe and be delivered to mid town Manhattan. Th swirling air currents prevented it.

Renovation costs over the past ten years = $100 million, which is why the entry ticket costs so much. It is also why red-coat ushers are on every floor, at every entryway, asking if you'd like to "upgrade your ticket" (an extra $15/person) to go up to the 102nd floor, offering to take your photo in front of the Empire State Building, and asking if you'd like a map, with history, of the Empire State Building for $8.


We were glad to see stuffed animal King Kongs in the gift shop. It was brilliant, and thought that the Niagara Falls gift shops should take note and sell wooden barrels in their gift shop.

While the city was smoggy, we could still get a nice glimpse of the city. We saw the New Year's ball, the Chrysler Building, and the sticks of Wall Street.

There are a lot of people stuffed in this city. And the views from the Empire State Building help you see just how stuffed. Bainbridge Island is roughly the same size of Manhattan, and people on Bainbridge complain about the increased population. Take a look at NYC!

From the top of the Empire State Building, looking Southwest
(Yes, that is New Jersey in the background.)

From the top of the Empire State Building, looking South

(Wall Street buildings in the background)

From the top of the Empire State Building, looking East

From the top of the Empire State Building, looking North

Interior of Grand Central Terminal
(notice the chandelier)

Our next stop - Grand Central Terminal. Don't call it Grand Central Station or you'll get your face slapped or branded a tourist.

Funny story we read about Grand Central Terminal...
Everyone thought the chandeliers in the terminal were made of bronze because of their color. But after a good cleaning, and the layers and layers of dust were removed, it was revealed that the chandeliers are actually 14kt. gold!


We stopped at Rockefeller Center to watch the ice skaters - some were really good (like the guy in the maroon t-shirt) and others had no problem embarrassing themselves in front of hundreds.

We spent about an hour in Times Square, which really isn't a square at all... more like a triangle. We were overwhelmed with the constant lights, the size of the screens, and the number of people.

We grabbed a seat near the NYPD station and ended up talking with an older gentleman who has been drawing NYC landmarks since he was 14 years old (He's 75). He has seen buildings come and go, and was in NYC for some major happenings. He shared his drawings and had a story for each one. The suckers we are, we bought a signed copy.

Of course, the city was glowing with pride for their
New York Yankees... 2009 World Series Champions.

NYC is filled with people trying to make a dollar or be the next big thing, and Times Square is the melting pot. We were swarmed at every corner with people trying to sell us their demo CD or inexpensive merchandise. You could buy 10 scarves for $10, a new artist CD for $3, or a Coach purse for $15, maybe even 2 for $25. It definitely keeps the city interesting.


You can't go to NYC without seeing a Broadway show. We have never seen Phantom of the Opera, and lucky for us, it is still showing at the Majestic Theatre. In fact, Phantom of the Opera is the longest running show on broadway (20+ years).


We were in the nose-bleed section, of course, and surrounded by middle school students. The class had been studying Phantom of the Opera and one of the teachers said "This is like no other show you've seen. It surpasses Transformers."

I told the boy sitting next to me that we have never seen Phantom of the Opera before, and I asked him what it was about. He said "It is a love story, but the guy doesn't get the girl in the end." Cute kid.