New York City - Part II

We headed "downtown" to Battery Park, and arrived at Clinton Castle to pick up our tickets to the Statue of Liberty and Ellis Island. Clinton Castle is a story in itself:

After the American Revolution, NYC decided it needed more protection. By 1812, it built a circular fort at the southern tip of Manhattan, but it never fired a shot. In 1817, the fort was named Castle Clinton (after the former mayor of New York, and future governor DeWitt Clinton) and used as an entertainment venue. The name was changed to Castle Garden in 1824 and housed concerts and firework displays.

Between 1855 and 1890, Castle Garden was turned into an immigration station, processing 8 million immigrants. In 1892, immigration operations moved to Ellis Island.

Castle Garden changed again in 1896 - this time it became an aquarium famous for its exotic fish from around the world. In the 1940's, much of Castle Garden was demolished for a tunnel project, but the original Castle Clinton walls remained.

In 1946, after many configurations, Castle Clinton became a national monument and was restored in the 1970's. I think Clinton Castle deserves a much needed break! Today, it serves as a museum and ticket station for the Statue of Liberty and Ellis Island cruise boats.


You can't imagine our excitement on the cruise boat as we approached the Statue of Liberty. She is a beauty - and enormous!

During a time when many French saw repression in their homeland, a man sought to protest by devising a plan to honor the ideals of freedom and liberty seen in the United States. Edouard de Laboulaye decided to build a modern-day Colossus (i.e. a really really big statue). Unfortunately, he died before he could see his Statue of Liberty constructed.

"Everything in America is big... even the peas."
- Auguste Barthodli (Pictured above)

Ok, it's much more than a statue. In the words of her sculptor, Auguste Bartholdi, "Colossal statuary does not consist simply in making an enormous statue. It ought to produce an emotion in the breast of the spectator, not because of its volume, but because its size is in keeping with the idea that it interprets, and with the place which it ought to occupy."

The statue was built in Paris, then dismantled, crated, and shipped to the U.S. She was stowed in 214 crates and traveled for 4 weeks. She arrived in New York Harbor on June 19, 1885.

What the statue represents to her people is something not easily pinned down. During the massive immigration of the late 19th century, Liberty represented the "Mother of Exiles." World War I saw a drastic reduction in immigration, and Liberty became America personified, starring on posters asking citizens to enlist in the military or buy war bonds. Since them Liberty has been used in more ways than we can recount here - but our favorite has to be helping out the Ghostbusters in their lackluster sequel.


So what does she stand for?
Her classic face and drapery suggest a Roman Goddess of Liberty; the broken shackles symbolize freedom newly achieved; the radiant crown represents her shedding light on the seven seas and continents. Roman numerals "July 4, 1776" are engraved on her tablet.

Looking "up her skirt"

Emma Lazarus

And who is Emma Lazarus?
She was 34 years old when she wrote The New Colossus, a poem in tribute to the Statue of Liberty, and is engraved on the pedestal.

Not like the brazen giant of Greek fame,
With conquering limbs astride from land to land;
Here at our sea-washed, sunset gates shall stand
A mighty woman with a torch, whose flame
Is the imprisoned lightning, and her name
Mother of Exiles. From her beacon-hand
Glows world-wide welcome; her mild eyes command
The air-bridged harbor that twin cities frame.
"Keep ancient lands, your storied pomp!" cries she
With silent lips. "Give me your tired, your poor,
Your huddled masses yearning to breathe free,
The wretched refuse of your teeming shore.
Send these, the homeless, tempest-tost to me,
I lift my lamp beside the golden door!"

Unfortunately we weren't able to get tickets to go up to the crown (they sell out months in advance), but were able to climb the base and "look up her skirt." The construction is quite fascinating. She is made up of a thin copper "skin" that's supported by a web of steel bars. The Visitor center really had some neat displays showing the techniques.

Torch and Flame No. 2

The Statue of Liberty is on her third torch and flame, yes, her third. The first torch and flame was completed in 1876, and the flame was a closed copper shell that was never intended to light from within. One month before the dedication in 1886, the U.S. Lighthouse Board cut a double row of staggered holes and placed electric lights inside the flame. The lights were dim and disappointing, and in 1892, the staggered holes were replaced with windows and a skylight was added.

By 1916, new light was badly needed and sculptor Gutzon Borglum (Mt. Rushmore's sculptor) redesigned the flame (torch and flame no. 2, and the one in the photo). He replaced 250 copper sections with amber glass and installed flickering lamps for the "flame" effect. The new designed quickly corroded, which led to torch and flame attempt number 3. This time, Bartholdi's original design was used and successfully withstands the elements.


Facts:

• Height from ground to top of torch - 305 ft. 1in.
• Height of statue - 151 ft. 1 in.
• Length of nose - 4 ft. 6 in.
• Thickness of copper "skin" - 3/32 in., about the thickness of two pennies, and weighs more than 62,000 pounds
  
• The statue was designed by Frederic Auguste Bartholdi, but Gustave Eiffel (of the Eiffel Tower) engineered the "skin's" support system.
  
• Her pedestal was created by Richards Morris Hunt
  
• Total cost (including the pedestal) = $300,000
  
• She was a gift from the French people (A random fact: The French are grateful people who express their thanks with gifts to the U.S. After WWI, the French gave 50 box cars - Hawaii and D.C. had to share - to the U.S., called "Merci Trains." Washington state's car is in Yakima, and Louisiana's car is on the Old State Capitol grounds in Baton Rouge.)
• Dedicated on October 28, 1886 by President Grover Cleveland
  

Ellis Island

After visiting Lady Liberty, we took the ferry to its next stop: Ellis Island.

One of the rooms had a model of Ellis Island as it changed over the years. It began as a tiny island (maybe 1/10th of its current size) and was called Little Oyster Island. It was later owned and sold by Samuel Ellis, a colonial New Yorker, in the late 1700's. Its lands were continually added to, and we heard from someone there that the city of New York used debris from the digging of the subway to build up Ellis Island.

The Registry Room
On many days, over 5,000 people would file through this room
waiting to be inspected and registered.

The island is most famous for its use as the U.S. immigration office - processing more than 12 million immigrants from 1892 to 1924 - thus contributing to one of the largest human migrations in the history of the world. The Island now serves as a memorial to all those who persevered in the hopes of finding a better life. John F. Kennedy wrote, "There were probably as many reasons for coming to America as there were people who came." Over 100 million Americans today can claim ancestors who came through Ellis Island.

"Graffiti Columns"
During renovations and cleaning,
inscriptions by detained immigrants were revealed.

___________________________________________

On our way to the Empire State Building, we were constantly stopped by the double-decker tour bus sales people. They could pick us out of a crowd of 100 people, and jump across the sidewalk to put a pamphlet in your hand.

Did we really stand out that much? What was their secret?

Finally, I asked the double-decker tour bus salesman near the Empire State Building - "Wow, you guys are good at picking us out. We've been asked at least 14 times this morning. Let me ask you something... How do you know we are tourist? Is it our backpacks or how we walk?" He laughed and laughed and laughed at the question, then said "Sometimes we can tell by the backpacks, or your walking pace. But when you are in the city for the first time - you are always looking up. That is how we know you are a tourist."

Ah-ha! Sneaky, sneaky! So from that point on, when we saw the double-decker tour bus sale people, we looked down.

From King Kong to the debunked penny myth, the Empire State Building is as iconic New York as the Space Needle is to Seattle or Mickey Mouse to Disneyland.

After September 11th, the Empire State Building became the tallest building in New York again. It stands 1,250 feet tall, and is the 3rd tallest building in the Americas and the 15th tallest in the world.


A quick history and some Facts:

• The Waldor-Astoria Hotel was razed for the construction of the Empire State Building
• Brainchild of Alfred E. Smith and John J. Raskob (By the way, Raskob was a Wall Street financier who helped turn General Motors into an automotive giant and sparked the growth of the DuPont family investment firm. Smith was an ex-New York governor.)
• William "Bill" Lamb was the architect
• The Empire State Building was built for $41 million (including the cost of the land)
• It was constructed in one year and 45 days
• The 55 foot deep foundation holds the 210 columns that support the entire structure
• 60,000 tons of steel beams were delivered at a rate that assured two stories could be completed every day (That's 4 1/2 stories a week!)
• It took 7 million man-hours to complete, and employed as many as 4000 men per day
• 290 bricklayers and masons
• 10 million bricks
• 2.5 million feet of electrical wire
• 120 miles of pipe
• 1000+ miles of telephone cable
• 6500 windows
• 1860 steps
• It weighs 365,000 tons
• 200,000 cubic feet of Indiana limestone
• May 1, 1931 - the Empire State Building is officially open to the public

The lobby is "An Art Deco Masterpiece" and made of thick slabs of marble and steel highlights. Elevators take visitors to the 86th floor in about a minute, and the 86th floor is 1,050 feet from the street.


Did you know that the 102nd floor was originally built as a landing mast for air ships? Me neither! The idea was that you could board an air ship in Europe and be delivered to mid town Manhattan. Th swirling air currents prevented it.

Renovation costs over the past ten years = $100 million, which is why the entry ticket costs so much. It is also why red-coat ushers are on every floor, at every entryway, asking if you'd like to "upgrade your ticket" (an extra $15/person) to go up to the 102nd floor, offering to take your photo in front of the Empire State Building, and asking if you'd like a map, with history, of the Empire State Building for $8.


We were glad to see stuffed animal King Kongs in the gift shop. It was brilliant, and thought that the Niagara Falls gift shops should take note and sell wooden barrels in their gift shop.

While the city was smoggy, we could still get a nice glimpse of the city. We saw the New Year's ball, the Chrysler Building, and the sticks of Wall Street.

There are a lot of people stuffed in this city. And the views from the Empire State Building help you see just how stuffed. Bainbridge Island is roughly the same size of Manhattan, and people on Bainbridge complain about the increased population. Take a look at NYC!

From the top of the Empire State Building, looking Southwest
(Yes, that is New Jersey in the background.)

From the top of the Empire State Building, looking South

(Wall Street buildings in the background)

From the top of the Empire State Building, looking East

From the top of the Empire State Building, looking North

Interior of Grand Central Terminal
(notice the chandelier)

Our next stop - Grand Central Terminal. Don't call it Grand Central Station or you'll get your face slapped or branded a tourist.

Funny story we read about Grand Central Terminal...
Everyone thought the chandeliers in the terminal were made of bronze because of their color. But after a good cleaning, and the layers and layers of dust were removed, it was revealed that the chandeliers are actually 14kt. gold!


We stopped at Rockefeller Center to watch the ice skaters - some were really good (like the guy in the maroon t-shirt) and others had no problem embarrassing themselves in front of hundreds.

We spent about an hour in Times Square, which really isn't a square at all... more like a triangle. We were overwhelmed with the constant lights, the size of the screens, and the number of people.

We grabbed a seat near the NYPD station and ended up talking with an older gentleman who has been drawing NYC landmarks since he was 14 years old (He's 75). He has seen buildings come and go, and was in NYC for some major happenings. He shared his drawings and had a story for each one. The suckers we are, we bought a signed copy.

Of course, the city was glowing with pride for their
New York Yankees... 2009 World Series Champions.

NYC is filled with people trying to make a dollar or be the next big thing, and Times Square is the melting pot. We were swarmed at every corner with people trying to sell us their demo CD or inexpensive merchandise. You could buy 10 scarves for $10, a new artist CD for $3, or a Coach purse for $15, maybe even 2 for $25. It definitely keeps the city interesting.


You can't go to NYC without seeing a Broadway show. We have never seen Phantom of the Opera, and lucky for us, it is still showing at the Majestic Theatre. In fact, Phantom of the Opera is the longest running show on broadway (20+ years).


We were in the nose-bleed section, of course, and surrounded by middle school students. The class had been studying Phantom of the Opera and one of the teachers said "This is like no other show you've seen. It surpasses Transformers."

I told the boy sitting next to me that we have never seen Phantom of the Opera before, and I asked him what it was about. He said "It is a love story, but the guy doesn't get the girl in the end." Cute kid.

New York City - Part I

Now we know this is an entry about New York City, but our trip would not have happened if it weren't for the generosity of Aunt Susan and Uncle Marshall in South Glastonbury, Connecticut. They brought us to the train station (we took the Amtrak into NYC), and they housed Sally the Subaru while we were on our "big city" adventure, so many, many, many thanks to Aunt Susan and Uncle Marshall!


So our biggest fear about NYC was navigating the subway system, but that was a cinch, if we might say so ourselves. We've heard that many New Yorkers get upset at the subway, particularly the erratic schedule, but the layout and signage are simple and in the right spots. It is hard to get lost – you just have to get used to the idea of being underground with no real landmarks. You are either going "Uptown" or "Downtown." Whew - we can now say we successfully navigated the NYC subway!

Mosaic tile work in the NYC subway

We arrived at the NYC hostel early, and decided to lock-up our backpacks and tour the nearby area. The hostel (at 103rd Street) is located one block from Central Park. It was a lovely day, and everyone was out taking advantage of the sunshine. We watched parents and children kick soccer balls back and forth, there were tennis players grunting on the span of tennis courts, and more runners than we've seen, ever!


We arrived at the Guggenheim Museum, an impressive circular building designed by Frank Lloyd Wright. It took Wright 15 years to design the building, and it opened in October 1959, marking 2009 as the 50th anniversary of its opening. It was Wright's last major project, and neither Guggenheim nor Wright lived to see it open. It is a classic NYC stop - especially if you are interested in seeing original works by Pablo Picasso, Kandinsky, and a handful of contemporary artists. But we must admit that the building overshadows the artwork - and it is worth a stop just for the structure itself. So if you aren't that interested in the artwork, just walk into the Guggenheim and experience the grandness of the building, then head out.


On our way "home" to the hostel, we stopped at the most interesting Whole Foods. We are used to seeing box stores like this in just that way - as a big box. Well, this store was a two-story box with an escalator specifically for your grocery cart! You can tell we don't get out much, right? It gets better... We get to the checkout line and there are four TV monitors in the following order: tan, blue, tan, blue. Numbers, representing the cashier, flash across the screen, and a pleasant female voice says "Check stand 24," plus a Whole Foods employee is there to direct you just in case you don't hear or understand the process. Very efficient!

We got to "Check stand 24" and were greeted by a smiling young lady. She instantly knew that we were not from the city (I'm still not sure what gave us away... maybe it was our enthusiastic "Hello!" or the "Yes, ma'am."), and asked us where we were from. We told her we were from Louisiana, it was our first day in NYC, and so far we really enjoyed it! She replied "People think NYC is so bad and New Yorkers are mean, but 99% of us love it here and are really kind." We think that sums it up nicely. NYC is great and the people are kind!


We loved the NYC hostel (Hostelling International), and we couldn't find a better deal for our week in the city. It was spacious, clean, and the location was ideal. We were one block away from the subway, one block away from Central Park, and surrounded by fun restaurants and grocery stores.

But hostels have their quirks, and our first night at the hostel was interesting. We shared a dorm room with 10 other folks (667 beds total for the hostel). Most were getting ready for the Saturday night jaunt to the local bars, but we just wanted to sleep. Plus, we didn't want to be targets of the night. Freaky things happen at night in NYC – or so we are told. heehee. Nah - we just wanted to play it safe our first night in the city.

Around 2am, I heard a guy down the hall screaming in a different language and banging stuff. I could see blue and red flashing lights, and I stayed up to watch the commotion. An NYPD cruiser and ambulance were sitting just outside of our dorm room window, so I had front row seats. They handcuffed the guy, and he continued to shout as they put him in the ambulance. I could see the EMT’s checking the guys passport through the ambulance – yes, they were THAT close. I'm still not sure what happened, but we haven’t seen that guy back at the hostel.


The next morning, we took the subway "downtown" to Greenwich Village. I don't understand how it is spelled "green" and "wich," but everyone pronounces it "gren-itch." Oh well.

It was a quiet Sunday morning, and we were the first ones at Rocco's Pastry Shop (opened in 1974). The pastry cases were full of biscotti, pignioli cookies, eclairs, cream puffs, and candy-covered almonds. And two young ladies were putting Chocolate Raspberry Torte, Chocolate Layer Loaf, Brownie Nutella Fluff, and Italian Cheesecakes in the window to lure people in. We ordered a cannoli, a muffin, and an Americano - the breakfast of champions! The Italian waiter brought us napkins - and I smiled and said “What, you think we are messy eaters or something?” I think we caught him off guard, but he laughed, put his hands out and said “It comes with the territory, eh.”


It seems New Yorkers are great folks, but you must be the first one to say "Hello" or flash a smile - otherwise, they won’t budge.

We walked off our cannoli (as much as you can walk off a connoli), and landed on a bench in Washington Square Park to people watch.


It is in the center of NYU's campus, and the university uses the park for their graduation ceremonies. The large arch (which is modeled after the Arc de Triomphe in Paris) is called Washington's Arch. It was originally built of wood and plaster, and erected in 1889 to commemorate Washington's inauguration. A more permanent structure was built in 1892, this time made of marble. The fountains were closed in preparation for winter, but the park was dominated by dogs and baby strollers.

Yes, these guys are spray-painting the side of the building.
They were fast!

Pigeons feasting on crumbs outside of the Sea Thai Restaurant

After lunch at the Sea Thai Restaurant (thanks for the suggestion, Cynthia!), we headed to the Astor Theater to watch the Blue Man Group.

IT WAS SPECTACULAR!

I’ve never been so inspired and awed by drums, lights, and blue faces. It was a wonderfully creative show – and funny, too! There were grown men cracking up laughing and strobe lights and loud music and toilet paper.

Astor Theater

I don't want to give too much away, but at the very beginning of the show, there is an LED screen that acknowledged audience members and their accomplishments, which weren't really their accomplishments. For example:

"Tonya McKnight is in the audience tonight. Tonya, please stand up and be recognized. She won the 1986 Olympic Gold Medal in Curling. Everyone say hello to Tonya McKnight." And the audience would say "Hi Tonya McKnight." Another one was "Charles Smith is in the audience tonight. Charles, please stand. He worked on the human genome project. Everyone say hello to Charles Smith."

The next one was the best, though...

"Richard Muffoletto is in the audience tonight. Richard, please stand and be recognized. Richard is just an average guy who hasn't done anything significant. Everyone say hello to Richard Muffoletto." Surprisingly, the audience did a wonderful job pronouncing Muffoletto! Then the screen scrolled "Ok, Richard, you can sit down now. No, really, please sit down." The lady sitting next to us was so excited that Richie's name was called! Of course, the producers chose the most complicated name in the audience. Wise guys. Go see the Blue Man Group!

The Cape

I thought Cape Cod was a tiny spit into the Atlantic Ocean, maybe 10-miles out, but I didn't realize that Cape Cod is 60 miles long with more than a dozen towns!

The Cape's Town Names:
Barnstable, Bourne, Brewster, Chatham, Dennis, Eastham, Falmouth, Harwich, Mashpee, Martha's Vineyard, Nantucket, Orleans, Provincetown, Sandwich, Truro, Wellfleet, Yarmouth

We took two days to explore Cape Cod and fell in love with the Atlantic Ocean again. Here are some of the highlights:

I'm pushing the ferry back, Woods Hole

Nobska Lighthouse in Woods Hole
The Coast Guard has been at Woods Hole since 1857. It was a base for the International Ice Patrol (established after the sinking of the Titanic), it deterred "rum-runners" from smuggling goods into the country during Prohibition, and was significant in WWII with the Greenland Patrol. Today, the Woods Hole base continues to protect the waters into the country. And the guardsmen here conduct over 2,000 search and rescue cases a year.

The original lighthouse was built in 1828 for less than $3,000. The original tower-on-keeper's quarters design proved poor, and when it rained, the roof leaked. So, the current cast-iron tower was built in 1876 and automated in 1985. The Fourth Order Fresnel lens is over 120 years old!

Nobska Lighthouse

Cape Cod Potato Chip Factory in Hyannis
It was a challenge to find the Cape Cod Potato Chip Factory in the hundreds of acres of the industrial complex.

They have been making chips for over 25 years, and boast all-natural goodness and fresh flavors with their "hand-stirred kettle cooked chips." With that, we were anxious to see the factory with its hundreds of employees sorting, cutting, and frying the potatoes. But we found a small complex of machines and only a handful of employees. Needless to say, it was disappointing to see almost everything mechanized - from the initial potato inspection, washing, peeling, and slicing, to the deep fryer process. The Cape Cod Potato Chip Company went from a "Mom & Pop" operation, producing 200 bags a day, to a machine producing 150,000 bags a day.

We learned that the company was actually bought in 1999 by the largest snack food distributor in the U.S. - Lance, Inc.

The good news - "From our farmer's fields to your table" is one slogan the Cape Cod Potato Chip Company uses, and we were excited to learn that their potato farms are in Maine.

This visit left us frustrated...
Just think how the unemployment rate would drop if the "Mom & Pop" places would stay "Mom & Pop." Companies could save money by not purchasing large machines, that will inevitably break and need hundreds, if not thousands of dollars in repair! Instead, they could use that money to pay employees a decent wage. They could also attract more tourists, because their potato chip is what makes Cape Cod unique, and you couldn't buy it anywhere else!

Oh - if only we ruled the world!

Cape Cod Lavender Farm

Cape Cod Lavender Farm in Harwich
Although we missed the harvest season (July), the lavender farm was still beautiful. We were able to witness the natural transition of fall to winter and visit the quaint scented gift shack where you can purchase all things lavender, including the farm's very own Harwich Blue plant variety. We also found a miniature medieval castle tucked amongst the trees in the farm's "Enchanted Garden." It was built by a quiet Cape Cod artist named Eddy Foisy who has become quite popular for his calming garden designs. If you are ever in Cape Cod, we recommend a visit to the Cape Cod Lavender Farm, just for its charm.

The Castle at Cape Cod Lavender Farm

Chatham Lighthouse in Chatham
Chatham is the elbow of The Cape, and the shore is considered one of the most dangerous in the nation. This light has a most-interesting story. Below is a brief timeline of events:

(Note of thanks to the U.S. Coast Guard for providing more history about these lighthouses than I could ever imagine!)

• 1808 - The first set of lights were constructed on the James' Head bluff to guide mariners around the shifting shoals of the Chatham Harbor Entrance. Two towers were built so mariners would not confuse this light with the Highland Light in Truro to the north. (Apparently, in the early 1800's, lighthouses were identified by the number of beacons, and not the seconds between blinks like today's lights.)
• The lights were made of wood (The towers were supposed to be built of stone, but no stone could be found on The Cape.), and set upon wooden skids five feet from the ground so that they could be moved to show a new direction of the channel entrance (which only happened once). All of this for $7,000!
• 1838 - The lights are "decayed and much shaken; dangerous to ascend in windy weather."
• 1841 - A second set of 40-foot towers were built of brick, to replace the old wooden structures. 1857 - Fourth Order Fresnel lens replaces the reflectors in each tower. You think that's fascinating - keep reading!
• 1870 - Huge Nor'easter hits Chatham causing a break in the barrier beach, and erosion begins a steady nine-year march to claim the 228 feet of land on the 50-foot high bluff in front of the lighthouse.
• 1874 - Now only 190 feet from the cliff edge, and the land is washing away in front of the lighthouse at an average rate of 31 feet per year.
• 1877 - A decision is made to build a new set of lighthouses and keeper's dwelling on the west side of the road. The towers are built of a brick-lined, cast iron shell. The Fresnel lenses are moved to the new towers 5 months later.
• 1879 - The old south tower topples over the bank (9 years and one month since the harbor break-through).
• 1881 - the old north tower and the keeper's house fall into the sea.
• 1923 - North tower moves to Nauset to replace 3 lighthouses called "The Three Sisters." (You'll see both of these later in the blog entry.)
• 1987 - During a Nor'easter the ocean breaks through the barrier beach opposite the lighthouse, and the town beach washes away. The "Break" grows to more than a mile; again exposing the bank in front of Chatham Light to another cycle of serious erosion. But the lighthouse is not in any danger due to the across-the-street move back in 1877.

Two of The Three Sisters Lighthouses

The Three Sisters and the Nauset Lighthouse in Eastham
It is important to put these two lighthouses together, because they served the same area. They too, have a fascinating story...

The Three Sisters

• 1838 – The Nauset Beach Light Station is built for $10,000. Three brick towers (known as the Three Sisters) were built to distinguish it from other lights. Remember that lighthouses were identified by the number of beacons and not the seconds between blinks. When sailors saw the Three Sisters, they knew they were at the middle of the Cape.
• 1858 – Sixth Order Fresnel lenses were installed.
• 1873 – The lenses were replaced with Fourth Order Fresnel lenses.
• 1892 – The three brick towers had deteriorated and were rebuilt as three wooden towers.
• 1918 – Steady erosion of the Nauset cliffs forced the removal of the lights from their posts. The two end towers were sold for the sum of $3.50, and became part of a summer cottage.
• 1923 – The one remaining wooden tower was replaced by the North Tower from Chatham Light. (Don't you love it when the government recycles!) The remaining wooden tower was sold and used as part of another summer cottage. No more Three Sisters. You will see more information about the Nauset Lighthouse later.
• 1965 – The National Park Service (NPS) bought back the three towers that had been sold back in 1918 and 1923.
• 1990 – NPS moved all three of the wooden towers to their current position in Eastham, MA, about a quarter mile away from their original location. It is a rare surviving example of a triple lighthouse configuration.

Nauset Lighthouse

Nauset Lighthouse - "On the Cape sine 1877."
Remember that this was the second North Tower of the Twin Lights of the Chatham Light Station, which was moved here in 1923. The tower is of cast iron plates, bolted together on site and lined with bricks.

In 1941, the top half of the tower was painted red for the first time. The light was automated in 1955, but it still uses the original Fourth-order Fresnel lens.

In 1993, the tower was deemed obsolete by the Coast Guard and was to be dismantled. The Nauset Light Preservation Society was formed and saved the lighthouse. In 1996, the lighthouse was moved back from the edge of the cliff to its current position. What a story!

An alternate view of the Nauset Lighthouse

Cape Cod Highland Lighthouse in North Truro
The original lighthouse was the first lighthouse on Cape Cod - ordered by George Washington in 1797. Cost = $8,000. It was replaced with the current light in 1857, which was built for $17,000. In July 1996, the lighthouse was moved to its current location, due to the ever-eroding coastline.

Cape Cod Highland Lighthouse

Provincetown, at the tip of Cape Cod
Provincetown is an interesting place. We arrived, as with most places, at the end of the tourist season. We are grateful for this because we don't have to struggle to find parking or pay inflated prices for food and fun. This is a quiet town "off-season."

We walked MacMillan Wharf and Commercial Street, and saw the Pilgrim Monument from a distance. Race Point Lighthouse and Wood End Light were on our list, but we didn't know about the "fairly strenuous walk across the breakwaters" we'd need to take to get to them.

New Hampshire & Massachusetts

We found a "Welcome to New Hampshire" sign, but it was halfway in the bushes, so maybe it should have said "We Halfway Welcome you to New Hampshire!" heehee


While crossing the bridge into New Hampshire, we spotted a sign for the USS Albacore and thought "We like albacore... let's check it out!" So many bad jokes so early in the blog entry, and I apologize.

What is the USS Albacore?

• A former experimental submarine for the U.S. Navy - a "floating laboratory" used to test propulsion systems, sonar equipment, and more.
• Her motto: Praenuntius Futuri (Forerunner of the Future)
• Built in Portsmouth, New Hampshire.
• The first boat built specifically to operate underwater (earlier submarines were considered surface vessels that could submerge). I'm not sure of the exact distinction, either.
• Commissioned in December of 1953
• Set the world's fastest submarine record in 1966, with underwater speeds nearly 40 mph.
• Decommissioned in September of 1972 and sent to the Inactive Ship Facility in Philadelphia.
• Arrived at Albacore Park in May of 1985
  

While traveling down New Hampshire's coastline, we stopped along the border of New Hampshire and Massachusetts at Salisbury State Reservation to answer the call of the Atlantic Ocean. Maine had a coastline, but no significant views of the ocean, not like this. So we sat down for the afternoon to enjoy the simplicity of the beach and power of the ocean. We agreed that this is the third windiest place we've been to - putting the California coast at #1 and Bear Butte State Park in South Dakota at #2.


There were only a handful of campers at the Salisbury State Reservation, and we were one of two goofy enough to be in a tent. Thankfully, we found an embankment to block some of the wind, but our fellow tenters weren't as lucky. Their tall tents whipped like flags in the wind - so much that their heavy air mattresses couldn't keep the tent steady.

We had plans to visit Cape Cod later in the week, but decided to first visit the lesser known Cape Ann. It has wonderful names like Rockport, Gloucester, Manchester-by-the-Sea, and Essex. We drove through Rockport and walked the town's streets and window shopped. You can see remnants of an old fishing village, but for the most part, the streets are lined with pricey homes and summer rentals. We did find a gem of a coffee shop that stays open all year and spotted a few fishing boats in the harbor. There is nothing like the smell of salty air!


The day was beautiful, so we headed north to Halibut Point State Park. The park is home to sheets of 440 million year-old granite, making this an ideal place for businessmen to operate a granite quarry.


Babson Farm quarried here in the 1840's, then production was increased by the Rockport Granite Company. The company collapsed in 1929, and the quarry serves as a recreation area full of trails and interpretive areas. It is a popular spot for dog owners, and we found this big guy cooped up in a van waiting for a walk.


We should have known better than to attempt a visit to Salem during Halloween, but we lost track of the days. With hotels running anywhere from $200-$400 per day with a four night minimum in Salem, we were grateful to the maintenance staff at the Winter Island Campground, just northeast of Salem. The campground was closing that day, for the season, and the guy said "Sure, you can stay here tonight. You'll be our first walk-ins for the day, and our last walk-ins for the season." He pointed us to the best campsite in the park, left the bathrooms unlocked, and psst... he didn't even charge us to stay!

After a month of celebrations, most of the crowds have left Salem, and it was time for us to do a few touristy things. The town was pretty, especially with this fall weather, but the residents were exhausted. We learned that Halloween 2009 brought over 100,000 visitors to this tiny town, so exhaustion was understandable and acceptable. The one place we were looking forward to was the Salem Witch Museum. Unfortunately, it was 20 minutes of rushed information, and not worth the $8/person admission fee. You can learn more about the trials through books, online research, or from your 8th grade history class!


But Salem isn't the only great city in Massachusetts, nor the only place to enjoy a bit of history! But Boston would come soon enough. Next stop - The Cape! (Cape Cod)